Doubt Cast on Singapore’s Effort to Preserve Hawker Culture

Hawker work, characterized by long hours—often exceeding 12 hours a day—and physically exhausting tasks, struggles to appeal to workers in a developed country where higher-paying, less demanding opportunities are available.

“‘Hawkerpreneurship’ involves long, inflexible, and sometimes irregular hours alongside gruelling tasks,” noted Dr. George Wong, Senior Lecturer of Sociology at Singapore Management University, in an interview with Singapore Business Review. He added that individuals on Long-Term Visit Passes (LTVPs) may weigh such challenges against other job opportunities with similar pay when deciding on employment.

The government’s decision to open the hawker trade to LTVP holders, previously restricted to Singapore citizens and permanent residents, aims to address rising labour costs while preserving Singapore’s rich hawker culture, which has roots dating back to the 1800s. However, the plan’s success is uncertain.

Hawker Challenges: Tradition, Wages, and Resistance

Dr. Xu Le, a lecturer from the Department of Strategy and Policy at NUS Business School, observed that even local citizens are reluctant to join the hawker industry, preferring stable, better-paying jobs. Additionally, hawker operators are often hesitant to share recipes passed down through generations with nonfamily members, viewing them as intellectual property.

“This reluctance creates a significant barrier to hiring foreign workers unless safeguards are put in place to protect these culinary heirlooms,” Wong explained.

The introduction of foreign workers to the hawker trade may also provoke negative reactions from Singaporeans, potentially exacerbating xenophobic sentiments and undermining public confidence in foreign labour policies, especially in the lead-up to general elections.

Potential Solutions: Technology and Productivity

Wong cautioned that while the policy might reduce labour costs in the long run, it could also introduce indirect costs, such as training foreign workers in food safety standards. He also highlighted the importance of leveraging government grants and digital transformation programs to help hawker businesses thrive.

Xu suggested that hawker operators prioritize hiring skilled workers from the food and beverage sector to improve efficiency. She also emphasized the role of technology, such as digital payments and self-ordering systems, in reducing reliance on manpower.

The Role of Customers in Preserving Hawker Culture

Wong encouraged Singaporeans to support hawker culture through simple actions, such as dining during off-peak hours, exploring lesser-known stalls, minimizing waste, and accepting additional charges for condiments and packaging.

While the policy has the potential to alleviate manpower costs, its success will depend on broader efforts to address operational challenges, maintain cultural integrity, and foster public support for Singapore’s iconic hawker trade.